Bottarga, or boutarque, is made by layering the whole roe of a mullet to cure under salt and pressing it. Fresh bottarga is cured for a far shorter time than the dried and is crumbly and moist, giving a delicious salt tang that is addictive. Sometimes known as Sardinian caviar, wonderful with pasta, bread and salad, or added to meat stocks and sauces to give an alternative flavour to anchovy or Lea and Perrins.